Demonstrations: Optics and the Eye
1. See a network of blood vessels on the surface of your retina.
(a) Take off your glasses if you wear them. (b) Stare at a large,
uniform, reasonably dim surface (e.g., a blank wall). (c) Take a small
flashlight, and hold it next to your eye, right up near the side of the
eyeball (the sclera), and shine it at the eye. (Some light will get
through the sclera and choroid, and light the retina from the side.)
Observation: Each time your eye (or the light) moves, you will
see the branching network of the blood vessels of your eye. Thus,
the receptors must be behind
the blood vessels. Also, you normally don't see these blood
vessels because your eye adapts and thus ignores them, but these
viewing conditions cause the image of them to move quickly, defeating
the adaptation ability of your visual system.
2. Ophthalmoscope. If you have access to one (and I can borrow
one if you are interested), use an ophthalmoscope to examine the
features of your friend's eye (and vice versa). Turn on the
device (push the red button and spin the ring). Light comes out
the curved side (point it at your hand and you'll see), so point that
into your friend's pupil while you look in the other side. Twist
the outer ring to bring the retina into focus. Try to spot the
optic disk and fovea, if you can! Note, this is a skill that
requires practice.
3. Depth of field. (a) Make a pin-hole in a piece of paper. (b)
Take off your glasses and look through the pin-hole when it is placed
as close as possible to your eye. Observation: The world is in
reasonable focus through the hole, even though it may be quite dim, and
depth of field is increased. For example, move your finger up as
close to your face as you can while keeping it in focus as viewed
through the pinhole. Remove the pinhole and note that you can no
longer accomodate that much (your finger is blurry no matter how hard
you try to focus).
4. Blur circle. Move the pin-hole close enough to one of your
eyes so that you can't bring the hole itself into focus. The
image of the hole is enlarged, forming a "blur circle". Cover
your other eye with your hand, and the blur circle should expand.
This is because you have darkened one eye, causing it's pupil to
dilate, but your two eyes' pupils are locked, so the pupil of the eye
viewing the pin-hole also dilated. The blur circle's size is
limited by the edges of the pupil, so a dilated pupil results in a
larger blur circle.
5. Reflection. Any object that reflects light provides an example
of reflection. Examine matte versus shiny services. Note that the
shininess of a shiny surface obeys (approximately) the mirror
reflection rules (you see an image of the light source reflected from
the object).
6. Refraction. (a) Fill a glass of water. (b) Insert a portion of
an object (say, a pen) into the water. Observation: The object
appears to bend at the boundary between water and air, which is a
result of the light rays coming from the submerged portions of the
object bending at the air/water boundary.
7. Dispersion. (a) Put a prism in front of a point source of
light. (b) Put a piece of paper in front of the prism.
Observation: See different colors on the paper. Note which
wavelengths of light (colors) bend more or less. Note the
ordering of colors in the rainbow, which is the ordering of the colors
of monochromatic (single wavelength) lights.
8. Diffraction. Look at the image of a point source of
light through apertures of various sizes against any suitable
surface. For very small apertures the diffraction should cause
the image to spread out relative to larger apertures. At even
larger apertures, the size of the aperture itself is a problem, and the
image quality worsens with larger aperture sizes.
9. Determine the focal length of a lens. (a) Set up a point
source of light as the object at an effectively "infinite" distance
away (i.e. a few meters). (b) Install the lens on the yardstick on the
table. (c) Move a piece of paper on the side of the lens which is
opposite to the point source (or fix the paper and move the lens).
Observation: At one particular position, a well-focused image of
the point source should be seen on the paper. The distance
between the lens and the well-focused image is the focal length of the
lens.
10. Relation between focal length and lens strength. (a) Repeat
(9) with lenses of different strength (or power). Observation: The
stronger the lens, the shorter the focal length. (Focal length is
inversely related to lens strength.)
11. Relation between "the distance between the lens and the
object" and "the distance between the lens and the image" for a given
lens. (a) Install the lens of known focal length on the yardstick. (b)
Fix the object some distance away from the lens. Record the
distance between the object and the lens. (c) Move a piece of paper on
the other side of the lens and find out the position where a
well-focused image occurs. Record the distance between the image
and the lens. (d) Repeat the pair of (b) and (c) several times, moving
the object each time. Observations: When you move the object
farther from the lens, the image becomes smaller and is in focus closer
to the lens. Move the object closer to the lens, the image becomes
larger and farther from the lens. If the distance between the
object and the lens is equal to or less than the focal length of the
lens, the lens will no longer be able to project an image of the object.
12. Correction for myopic errors. (a) Set up a point source at an
"infinite" distance from a convex lens of known focal length. (b) Place
a piece of paper at a distance slightly farther than the focal length
on the other side of the lens. The image is blurry in much the
same way as it is for a near-sighted (myopic) observer viewing a
distant scene. Part 1: (c) Place lenses of different shapes and
strengths in front of the original lens, opposite to the side the paper
is on, to determine which "corrective lens" results in a focused image
on the paper. Part 2: (c) Instead, move the single lens towards or away
from the paper in order to obtain a focused image. (Or, move the
paper instead.) Part 3: (c) Instead, replace the lens with lenses of
different strengths to obtain a clear image. Observations: Myopic
errors can be corrected by (1) adding a concave lens, (2) decreasing
the distance between the lens and the surface, or (3) decreasing the
strength of the lens.
13. Correction for hypermetropic errors. (a) Repeat 10, except
that the distance between the paper and the lens should be slightly
shorter than the focal length this time. Observations:
Hypermetropic errors can be corrected by (1) adding a convex lens, (2)
increasing the distance between the lens and the surface, or (3)
increasing the strength of the lens.
14. Optical corrections. (a) Use an optical testkit
and eye chart to determine which amount of refraction you require (for
one eye) to achieve the best focus possible (I can borrow a testkit for
you if you are interested) - this is your optical correction.
(b) Use the cylindrical lenses and the ray diagram to see the
effects of cylindrical aberration (astigmatism). If you have
astigmatism, see if you can determine its principal axes (which rays
are in focus and which are not), and how much cylindrical correction
solves the problem. These values (refraction, principal axis,
cylindrical correction) are the values your optometrist uses to grind
the lenses of your glasses. For some contact lenses, typically
the astigmatism is less important since the front of the contact lens
doesn't have the cylindrical aberration, and the seal between the lens
and your cornea prevents the cylindrical aberration of your cornea from
being a factor.